Pulia’s Beaches: Polignano a Mare and Monopoli


We checked out of Matera and headed toward's Italy's long coastline along the Adriatic Sea - starting with Polignano a Mare.  Quite popular and best known for its white pebble beaches and dramatic cliffs, it is one of the most photographed spots along Italy's Adriatic Coast.

In Polignano a Mare, don't miss famous Lama Monachile beach nestled between the cliffs!

Super Mago del Gelo was the perfect solution to the morning sluggishness I was feeling.  This popular café right in front of the main gate entering the old town sells an inventive caffè speciale: espresso with cream, Amaretto, and a tiny chunk of lemon peel.

Super Mago del Gelo's caffè speciale was just the boost I needed to start exploring Polignano a Mare's balconies and small shops.

View of Lama Monachile beach from the old city

Spend a couple of hours exploring Polignano a Mare' s old city

Polignano a Mare's scenic cliffs are undercut by sea caves. Check out the the cave restaurant Grotta Palazzese, considered among the 10 most exclusive outdoor restaurants in the world.

Just a few minutes down the coast was the day's final destination: Monopoli. It doesn't make it onto everyone's Puglia itinerary - and now I can see why.  Parking here takes longer than exploring the town.

The small coastal town of Monopoli

The jury is still out on the internet but I would say if you are undecided, Monopoli is skippable. For us, it worked as a place to stay for a night that isn't far from Bari's airport. But I felt a bit bamboozled, falling for the alluring descriptions I'd found online: a "quintessentially southern Italian experience" where you can "capture glimpses into everyday life" because it is "full of locals and not tourists". Maybe it once was, but now the secret is out. 

The sight to see in Monopoli is its "fascinating harbor" with its contrasting blue boats

We made the best of it by finding a bar. The one that called to us was Sottocoperta, the only one with a view of the harbor - that happened to be playing songs from my playlist, all disguised under covers. It got a whole lot better when it started raining. Everyone bolted inside - except us. We sat under our umbrella in the rain, laughing at each other and watching chuckling passerby's. I think the staff might've taken bets on how long we would last - and the winning bet was one hour, when the thunder and lightning started. It wasn't our plan to stay here for dinner, but as fate would have it, it beat venturing out in the rain.

In the rain, we had the patio with a view all to ourselves

For dinner we tried a modern version of Pinse, a Roman food that is basically a focaccia with toppings

So in the end, Monopoli - and the rain in Italy - came through and gave us one of those memorable moments that keep us bonded in exploring the world together.

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